A Guide to The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Swanage
The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Swanage
THE SWANAGE AND STUDLAND TEAM MINSIRY
A GUIDE TO THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. MARY THE VIRGIN, SWANAGE
(To print out and use as a walk-around guide to the church)
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Haig, H, The North Rose Window St. Mary’s Church, Swanage, (P.C.C. of Swanage, 1994) – a leaflet providing details of the design of the North Rose Window, compiled for its installation.
Tomes, G, [updated by Brown, W], A Short History of the Organ in the Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin, Swanage, (P.C.C. of Swanage, 1996) – a more detailed guide giving full details of the history and specification of the organ.
Unknown author, The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Swanage, Dorset, (P.C.C. of Swanage, date unknown) – a short guide to the church.
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Swanage’s ancient Parish Church. Built of the beautiful Purbeck stone for which our town and district are famous, St. Mary’s has seen Swanage grow from a poor hamlet of fishermen and stone quarries to its present 8,500 inhabitants (rising to 30,000 in the summer season). Originally a Chapel of Ease of the neighbouring parish of Worth Matravers and served by the Vicar of Worth, Swanage became a parish with its own Rector in 1487.
The Church has been rebuilt on at least four occasions and the oldest remaining part is the tower.
Early Church
Little is known of the earliest churches on the site. It is reasonable to suppose that the church provided for the small hamlet consisted of a simple nave and chancel to which was added at a later date the tower. The tower has, over the years, been a source of some debate – both as to its age and original position in relation to the rest of the church. It has long been thought that the tower was, due to its simplicity, of early construction and designed for use as a place of refuge from the Danes who often raided the South coast during Saxon times. In support of this idea is the fact that the tower is entered by an external door in the first storey. Though it is true that the stonework is simple and not bonded to the main body of the church more recent estimates as to its age place it as more recent and the theory that it was a defensive structure are now largely discounted.
1620
Around this date the church was found to be in a bad state by the Rector, the Rev. Brune Cockram, and was largely rebuilt. This rebuilding retained some of the old window tracery which has, in turn, survived within the present building. Old prints show that this church was a modest building with a plaster barrel ceiling and later galleries across the width of the west end and along the length of the north aisle. A huge three-decker pulpit stood halfway down the south side of the nave which was filled with box pews. The small hexagonal font made from Purbeck Marble and dated 1663 is now in the daughter church of St. Marks, Herston.
1859
In 1859 the Rector, the Rev. R. Duncan Travers, had the body of the church demolished and replaced with a more spacious building with a wide aisleless nave, chancel and galleried transepts. There was a small north aisle to the chancel which contained the organ. The nave of this building was of the same dimensions as the combined nave and north aisle of the church it replaced. It is this building that forms the main body of today’s church.
1907
The continued growth of Swanage led to the addition of the current North Nave. It is unusual in that it is as wide and high as the main Nave and extends back to the West wall of the Tower. For this reason it is better termed a second, North Nave rather than an aisle.
1943
In 1943 the church was damaged by the effects of a bomb blast which destroyed several cottages on Church Hill and seriously damaged the United Reformed Church on High Street. 14 windows were blown out and the roof of the Nave was damaged. On the return of peace the church was repaired and the windows reglazed. At the same time the present Rectory was built on the site of some of the bombed cottages on Church Hill.
A GUIDE TO THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH (in the form of a guided tour)
From whichever door you have entered St. Mary’s walk to the back of the Nave (the main body of the Church) and face East (towards the High Altar).
Great East Window: The Revelation Window
From the back of the Nave the Great East Window dominates the view, rising above the High Altar. This window, installed to replace one blown out by bombing in the Second World War represents Christ in Glory, surrounded by the Saints and the Redeemed. Michael, Gabriel and the emblems of the Four Evangelists are immediately on either side of Christ. At the base of the window may be seen the New Jerusalem and the River of the Water of Life with the Tree of Life in the midst. The imagery is taken from the final chapters of the Revelation of St. John, whose figure is at the bottom right hand corner of the window.
Nativity Window
As you stand at the back of the Nave this window is on your immediate right and shows the scene of Jesus’ birth. The tracery of this window copies that of the old Perpendicular East Window of the pre-1859 building. A beautiful 14th-century rear arch from the old church has been used as a frame for this window.
The Font
Walking up the Nave you will find the Font beside the South Door which was, until recently, the main entrance to the church. The Font is used to contain the water used to baptise new members of the Church – both young and old. Rather that being the end of a Christians development it is just the start of their journey exploring what it means to believe in a God and how the Christian Church interprets this in the light of its experience.
The Font itself is made from a massive block of local Purbeck marble. The Font cover, a memorial to the Swanage Grammar School, was made in the school workshop in 1973, just before the school closed and was replaced by The Purbeck School in Wareham.
Windows
Above the South Door is a small window that contains the only stained glass that survived the nearby bomb-blast in 1943.
Memorials on the West wall
Looking back behind you to the West wall you will see three memorials to seamen and merchants from Swanage – an indication of the town’s origins as a fishing town and port for the local stone industry. The centre memorial has detailed carvings of the naval victory of the ‘Defiance’ of 24 guns over a French ship of ‘superior force’ in 1758.
Higher up on this wall can be seen a window from the ringing chamber showing how the height of the present roof exceeds that of the earlier buildings.
South Rose Window: Royal British Legion Window
Moving up the Nave toward the Chancel steps you can see to your left, above the South Gallery, is a window dedicated to the memory of those who have lost their lives in armed conflict. It was dedicated by The Right Reverend Victor Pike the Bishop of Sherborne, and former Chaplain General. The window was unveiled by Colonel Sir Joseph Weld, The Lord Lieutenant of Dorset, on 14th November 1982.
Service Association Standards
The South Transept also contains the standards of several service associations including the Royal British Legion, Royal Air Forces Association and ……
Lectern
The lectern was donated by Elizabeth Burt of Purbeck House at the end of the 19th century and originally stood in the centre of the main aisle at the entrance to the chancel until it took its current position as part of the rebuilding of the church at the beginning of the 20th century.
Pulpit
The pulpit is of simple design and was, until the 1907 rebuilding of the church located where the lectern currently stands. This pulpit replaced the three-decker pulpit that had been present in the pre-1859 building.
The Chancel
Looking eastwards once again you will see the Chancel containing clergy and choir-stalls and the High Altar. St. Mary’s church has a long-standing musical tradition dating back at least to the time when the present building was built in the 19th century. For the first century of this period there was, at the heart of this tradition, a choir of men and boys. Since the 1960’s the number of boys singing in the choir has gradually diminished and, whilst maintaining the tradition the St. Mary’s Choir now consists mostly of adult singers. There is a separate group of younger singers, The Choristers of St. Mary’s, who sing at weekday and other occasional services.
It is at the main altar in the Chancel that the eucharist is celebrated and shared each Sunday as part of the Church’s main act of worship. The floor of the Chancel was, when the building was built in 1859, at a lower level but has subsequently been raised with the addition of the steps directly in front of you and the Purbeck marble plinth on which the High Altar stands.
North Rose Window: The Creation Window
Still standing in the front of the Nave, but looking above the gallery to your left, you will see the Creation Window – installed in 1994. Designed by the Dorset stained glass artist, Henry Haig, it is an abstract representation of the whole creation story whose description provides ample explanation of the design:
‘The north rose window at St. Mary’s offers a special opportunity: with clear sky behind not only can it be seen from floor level and at some distance, but also, because of the gallery beneath it can be examined close to. The design has therefore evolved as two layers: a main visual structure – disposition of major elements to radiate and expand within the circle moving spirally, loosening rigidity but never leaving the architectural form. Set within that dynamic are specifics related to a pattern of thought. The first structure suggests the energy of light, division of the firmament, and the transition of life forms below the sea, in the sea, the edge of the sea, on and above ground. These surmounted by the Tree of Knowledge reminding us of our origins in Eden and the Tree of Life conveying the necessity of choice. Over all sits a scallop shell and cross, references to pilgrimage and the offer of redemption.
Following gothic practice, ‘pictorial’ elements are set in circular areas surrounding the central quatrefoil, each individual panel reading in its own right, but balanced within the whole design structure. The radiating theme is continued into the surrounding lights. There are elements that become identifiable and open to exploration, but all spring from the wonder of growing forms, seemingly different, but demonstrating similarities no matter what extremes of scale may exist: cosmic and microscopic existence in time and space emanating from the one source’
North Nave
Walking in front of the pulpit you will be entering the North Nave. The North Nave was added to the 1859 building in 1907 to cater for the still increased summer congregations. With its flexible seating the North Nave forms an ideal space for the many concerts that take place in St. Mary’s during the year.
War Memorials
Town
Either side of the arch in front of the organ are the brass memorials that list the names of parishioners who lost their lives in the First World War. To the left of this arch is a similar list of those who gave their lives in the Second World War.
Grammar School
Below the town’s memorial is that which was made for the former Grammar School and was moved here when the school closed in 1973.
The Organ
The present organ, rebuilt in its current form in 1987, is the third organ known to have been used in St. Mary’s and dominates the East end of the North Nave.
The first known organ was installed in around 1830 and was positioned in the West Gallery of the old church. This organ is presumed to have continued in use in the new church after the 1859 rebuilding for the next instrument was not installed until 1875. This instrument was in the chancel of the new building and it is reasonable to assume that the 1830s instrument had itself been moved to this location at the time of the rebuilding.
In 1899 a new instrument, the heart of the current instrument, replaced this 1875 organ in the same location. This was built be Vowles of Bristol and was itself moved to its current position in 1906 following the construction of the North Nave a few years previously. At the time that the instrument was moved from the Chancel to the North Nave it was extensively rebuilt and expanded. Further rebuilds of varying degrees took place in 1958, 1965, 1973 and, most recently, in 1987. A separate booklet giving a detailed description of the organ is available.
Organists of St. Mary’s
James T. Hillier 1882 – 1929
Edwin G. K. Farwell 1929 – 1940
Geoffrey Tomes 1940 – 1978
William Brown 1978 – present
St. Mary’s church has a long-standing musical tradition. At least since the present church was built in the 19th century the heart of this tradition has been the robed choir. For the first century of this period there was, at the heart of this tradition, a choir of men and boys. Since the 1960’s membership of the choir has broadened and the tradition is now continued by a mixed choir of men and women.
The established choir enjoys a good reputation and past choristers have achieved recognition in a number of fields. The choir occasionally visits cathedrals to sing in place of the resident choirs when they are on holiday. St. Mary’s Choir has recently been joined by a second group – The Choristers of St. Mary’s – that aims to introduce a new generation of young people to this rich tradition of church music and spirituality.
In recent years this tradition has been further enriched by instrumentalists who now contribute to the liturgy both as soloists and as part of an instrumental group that meets monthly.
St. Aldhelm’s Chapel
The area beneath the North Gallery was furnished as a Chapel in 1971. Originally it was furnished entirely from the now demolished Victorian Church of St. Aldhelm in Grosvenor Road. The figures in the glass screen were taken from the East Window of St. Aldhelm’s Church. The Chapel is now used for many midweek services and is always available for private prayer whenever the church is open. The Reserved Sacrament is kept here for taking to the Sick.
Windows
Coffin Lid
Mounted on the largest pillar between the Nave and North Nave is a stone coffin lid found …………
West Screen
At the same time that the St. Aldhelm’s Chapel was created the old West Porch was rearranged to create a screen, which now houses the choir vestries. On the wall to the left hand side of this screen you will find a number of paintings and photographs that show how the building has changed over the last couple of centuries – both inside and out.
RECTORS AND CLERGY OF ST. MARY’S
As mentioned at the beginning of this guide St. Mary’s was originally a Chapel of Ease to The Parish Church of St. Nicholas, Worth Matravers and was served by the Rector of Worth. The journey made by this cleric to serve the outlying chapel is still commemorated today in the name ‘Priest’s Way’ which is given to the road in Swanage that continues as a path to Worth Matravers. In 1487 the situation was reversed and Swanage became the main church. To this day the Rector of Swanage is still the Patron of the Living of Worth Matravers and is involved in the selection and appointment of the priest who, together with Langton Matravers, serves the Parish of Worth.
OUTSIDE THE CHURCH
St. Mary’s Rooms
Leaving the church by the West Door you will find The St. Mary’s Rooms to your left. Whilst this building was built not many years ago it has its origins much earlier and in another Purbeck community. During the Second World War the communities living on the heathland leading down to Poole Harbour were evacuated to allow military activities to take place unhindered. As a result of this the Mission Chapel of St. Paul at Goathorn became redundant and was moved to the east end of St. Mary’s to act as a church hall. By the 1980s this corrugated iron structure had outlived its natural life and was replaced with the current two-storey stone building that was named The St. Paul’s Rooms in recognition of its origin. Whilst the building has since been renamed The St. Mary’s Rooms to avoid confusion the bell from the small chapel remains in the lobby as a lasting memorial of the buildings humble and somewhat different beginnings. The upstairs room is named after Kathleen Hawkins………… whilst the downstairs room is called the St. Paul’s Room to mark the history of the building’s antecedents.
The Tower
As mentioned above there has been some dispute over the years as to the age of the tower. It is, however, known that the top storey was added in 1620, and now houses a peal of 8 bells.
The Bells
St. Mary’s has a peal of 8 bells, the earliest of which dates from 1594. There is, however, evidence of bells well before this time and four ‘great bells’ were listed in the Edwardian Inventory of 1552. It seems likely that these bells were the subject of various recastings, and their metal probably exists today in the four oldest bells. These are dated as follows: the present fourth 1594, the fifth probably dates from 1621, the seventh 1621 and the sixth 1794. The last of these was cast by Letser and Pack but the other three by John Wallis of Salisbury. The fifth has the date 1612 cast but it is reasonable to assume that is dates from the same date as the seventh as the casting ‘feare God’ reads ‘are godfe’ – providing evidence of errors in casting.
In 1882 four more bells (the present treble, second, third and tenor) were added to complete the octave through the generosity of Mr. George Burt, in memory of his wife Elizabeth and are inscribed to this effect. The sixth was recast whilst the fourth, fifth and seventh were quarter-turned. All this work was carried out by Taylors of Loughborough. The cost of the four new bells was 297.17.4. Mr. Burt also provided a set of twelve handbells costing 6.5.3. The bells were dedicated on 27th September 1888 by the Bishop of Salisbury. In the evening the ringers from St. Peter’s, Bournemouth assisted by others from Loughborough and Salisbury rang a half-peal of Grandshire Triples conducted by Thomas Blackbourn. This was folled by an ‘excellent supper in the National School’.
By 1911 the bells were going badly. Taylors rebored the brasses of the seventh and tenor bells, fitted new gudgeons, and lifted and levelled the other six. IN 1931 the bells were again going badly and although Taylors were asked to report the P.C.C. could not afford to have the work carried out; however, the ringers began collecting amongst themselves. By the summer of 1939 the ‘go’ of the bells had so deteriorated that Taylors were asked if it was safe to ring them. Although ringing continued the estimate for repairs was £171 with a further 81.10.0 if the seventh was recast with more metal. By this time the ringers had collected £101. This, together with a grant from the Barron Bell Trust (£176.10.0) and donations totalling £88 for the retuning of the bells enabled a Faculty to be obtained and the work put in hand. In March1940 Taylors reported from the foundry that the three 1888 trebles were ‘so wild and chaotic’ that despite ‘everything having been done the only way to put the peal back in proper tune was to recast and remodel the smallest bells’. Taylors made a generous offer of a 50% reduction in the cost of the retuning work which was accepted by the P.C.C. Due to the war-time ban on ringing the bells were not dedicated and rung until 18th September 1943.
After the augmentation to eight in 1888 a new band of ringers was trained with the help of the towers at St. Peter’s Bournemouth and St. Thomas’s Salisbury. Before the Swanage bells were available the ringers would, on Saturday afternoons, travel by boat from the new pier for practice at Bournemouth, courtesy of the Weymouth Steamboat Company. The new band made good progress for on Thursday 4th December 1890 they rang the first Quarter Peal, by an all local band, of Grandshire Triples conducted by their Captain, Lambert L. Rose. From then on until the early 1930s Swanage was in the forefront of the development of change ringing in Dorset and within the Salisbury Diocesan Guild of Ringers. Grandshire, Kent, Stedman and Double Norwich were regularly rung for service and on one recorded occasion Studland Minor.
The tower is fortunate in that good records have been maintained by the ringers – the visitors and ringing records dating back to 1891. The ringers turned out for every national and local occasion both happy and sad, including the sinking of the Titanic and the marriage and birth of members of the Royal Family. The tower has always maintained a strong band of ringers and they rehearse on Wednesday evenings and ring for both morning and evening services on Sundays.
Description of the Bells
Bell Inscription Weight Date
1 IN MEMORY OF MRS ELIZABETH BURT 4.2.14 1888
OF PURBECK HOUSE, WHO DIED
JANUARY 6th 1886
2 Ditto 5.0.1 1888
3 Ditto 5.3.4 1888
4 THINK ON GOD I.W. 6.3.6 1594
5 ARE GODFE I.W. 7.3.0 1612?
6 LESTER AND PACK OF LONDON FECIT 10.0.26 1621
7 HONO RTHE KING I.W. 14.2.23 1621
8 As 1, 2 and 3 22.0.24 1888
Captains of Ringers since 1888
Lambert H. Rose 1888 – 1891
Walter J. Bastable 1891 – 1910
George J. Williams 1910 – 1933
Walter J. Bastable 1933 – 1936
Following George William’s resignation Walter Bastable had agreed to act as ‘temporary Captain’. No permanent Captain was appointed in 1936 and the Tower Correspondent, J.B.M. Ridout agreed to look after ‘general arrangements’ until the appointment of Frank Haysom in 1945.
G. Frank Haysom 1945 – 1952
Frank Haysom resigned in 1952 and, despite efforts he could not be persuaded to continue. In the light of several years of ‘meagre attendances’ and in the absence of ‘anyone capable’ the post was left vacant for the year of 1952.
R. F. Price 1953 – 1954
Cyril M. Turner 1954 – 1955
William S. Brown 1955 – 1957
Henry Woodhouse 1957 – 1959
William R. Damer 1959 – 1976
E. Twell Smith 1976 –
Geoffrey Charles Coffin
David Haysom 19 – 2006
Matthew Pike 2006 to present
The Clock
The present turret clock dates from 1860 but this was not the first movement to appear in the tower. The Churchwarden’s Accounts for 1720 record ‘an account of what money was given for the getting up of a new clock in the year 1720 £1 17s 6d’ and again in 1721 ‘ Pd Isack Cloud his money for the clock’ although no amount was given.
TODAY’S CHURCH
Whilst St. Mary’s contains much that is of historic interest the story is not one of a museum that can only tell of a varied and often interesting past but of the faith of a community that has grown and changed with the times. Thus whilst the church dates largely from the Victorian growth of Swanage it contains some parts left from the story of earlier ages and records the sometimes troubled time of the 20th century.
St. Mary’s still stands witness among the people of Swanage and welcomes all who wish to enter and share in the experience and faith it has to offer – from the peace and quiet of a summer afternoon to the excitement of a family wedding or celebration of the various festivals of the Church Year. As well as welcoming those with a ready faith the congregation hope that those of little or no faith can gain a deeper understanding through the experiencing of the building and some of the activities that it hosts.
At the core of St. Mary’s life is the witness that it provides through the liturgy that is regularly performed within its walls
© Nick Brown and PCC of Swanage 2007